We arrived in Deshaies around 8:30 am and dropped anchor. We hung out and had a lazy day: snorkeling, swimming, reading, interwebs, snacking, and chores.
Friday June 29: Leave Gustavia and head towards Guadaloupe
We ate delicious Breton crepes for breakfast.
We made two trips to the chandlery again today in our efforts to fix the starboard freshwater pump. (Maybe it is fixed now; I hope.)
We checked out of Gustavia around noon and set sail towards Guadaloupe. We had good wind for once — we sailed and pinched our way with only a very short tack to avoid Redonda.
When abeam of St. Kitts, we deployed our new drogue to see how it would work. It slowed the boat to around 4 knots.
Nice days in Gustavia: a good mix of errands, good food, boat work and exploring the town.
We have decided that it is not so important after all that we get to Grenada by June 30th. Maybe we’ll stop in Guadaloupe for a few days before we go to Grenada.
Monday June 25 and Tuesday June 26: From Anegada, British Virgin Islands to Gustavia, St. Barthélemy
We upped anchor in Anegada at 8:30 on Monday and, after a lot of sailing and tacking (220 boat miles to go ~100 direct miles), we arrived at St. Barth’s around 4 pm on Tuesday.
On Monday, Paul Jedrzejewski arrived from San Diego. He’s going to sail with us to Puerto Rico.
I’m getting back to my wanna-be hippy roots and have started growing my own bean sprouts and culturing yogurt.
The initial bean sprout experiment was a success — sprouts sprout twice as fast in the heat of the tropics than in SF.
The cupboard above the freezer pump gets very hot — the freezer pump runs a lot keeping our cold food not-quite frozen in the hot weather. Turns out that this hot cupboard is a great place to culture yogurt. Today’s batch was the best yet — made from Chobani Greek yogurt, milk powder, evaporated milk, a pinch of salt and a touch of gelatine.
On Saturday, we rented a little car and drove along Provinciales. We drove the highway, the length of the island: first to the end of the road on the east and then in the evening we drove to the end of the paved road on the west.
Here are some pictures from the day:
An occasional series of practical recipes to cook aboard using the ingredients at hand.
Wednesday May 30th to Thursday May 31st: At sea between Great Exuma and Turks and Caicos
These were our first full days at sea. It took a while to get used to it. We did watches: four hours during the day and three hours at night. This is when it’s great to be a foursome. Cruising couples have to be on watch half the day, we only had to be on watch for a quarter of the day.
Not much to see: In one of my four hour watches, I saw : one flying fish, one small floating plastic item, two spouts from a whale.
A high point was heaving to and going for a midday swim in flat seas, 30 miles from land where the sea was 15,000 ft deep.
It’s May 30th and I am on the 19:00-22:00 watch, sailing close hauled (that’s 45 degrees off the breeze in our cat) under a single reefed main and a full jib at 5.8 kts in 10-11 kts of true wind. Seas are calm and we are humming along in light trade winds just after sunset. The radar is on and clear and the AIS shows no one in sight. I’ll put in a short hitch tack in about 1.5 hours to get us around a reef and set us up for a dawn arrival in the Turks and Caicos. Life is very good.
Here is the strange part. I am sitting in the salon with the air conditioning on! We needed to fire the generator to make water from the clean 15,000 ft deep water (see a separate post for our hove to dip). Since the generator was going to be on anyway, we decided to have an air conditioned clean out the fridge dinner utilizing the microwave. We stopped short of watching an episode of ‘Extras’ (a new Ricky Gervaise show) from the iPad, but just barely. All the while sailing along.
Life is strangely good.
While Arthur whiled away the day in his hummus punnet, we decided we ought to practice some man overboard recovery. We started with the last part: getting back on board. After the person has been recovered and is secured to the boat, how do you get them back on board? You can try the sugar-scoops (steps) at the back, but in a heavy sea they will be bouncing up and down and could cause injury. The safest way is over the side on the lee of the boat.