On Delay goes gunkholing in the Bocas del Toro archipelago

January 1st to 10th, 2013, Bocas del Toro archipelago, Panama

We started the New Year with 10 nights of gunkholing around the many little islands of Bocas del Toro.

There are multiple definitions of gunkholing, but this one* best describes our gunkholing:

“… gunkholing is a more earthy term for anchoring your boat on a pleasant out-of-the-way cove or creek. A simple cruise with peace and quiet, beautiful surroundings, tranquil waters and none of the usual daily grind as your destination.”

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A walk in the jungle

January 7th, 2012, Salt Creek Community, Isla Bastimentos, Bocas del Toro, Panama

Pete, Tony and I took the dinghy, with its malfunctioning outboard, up Salt Creek to visit the Ngöbe Indian Community. We most certainly took paddles (and used them). The dinghy motor has only one speed — fast. (Requires a “neutral drop” to start.) Travelling at a constant but high speed gave the twisty trip up the mangrove-lined creek the distinct feel of a video game.  

MangroveCreek

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Seafood in Kuna Yala

November 2012, Kuna Yala

We really enjoyed the seafood in Kuna Yala. Fruit and vegetables in the shops were scarce and mostly poor quality, but the fresh seafood almost made up for it.

Imagine door-to-door salemen offering fresh fish, crab and lobster at reasonable prices. With Gayle away, Tony and I tried particularly hard to tire of crab and lobster. [For the record, I discovered it takes me three days and then I need two days off.]

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Shannon in Kuna Land

Kuna Yala, November 2012

Shannon and CJ came to visit On Delay for a week in November. Shannon wrote this wonderful journal of her time with us and kindly agreed to let us share it with you, our blog readers. (I added in the photos; many taken by Shannon but some taken by the rest of the crew.) I hope you enjoy this fine trip report.

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Kuna on tow

Aridup to Snug Harbour, December 3, 2012

Last posting about our time in Kuna Yala

We were hanging out in Aridup (a beautiful spot north of Playon Chico) and we were approached by a Kuna man (later introduced as Señor Delion) and his grandson. We bought some Kuna bread from him and then he asked where we were going next and when. He asked if we could take him to Snug Harbour with us as his home is nearby.

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Mola Mania in Kuna Yala

Kuna Yala (aka San Blas islands) November 9 to December 9, 2012

Molas are fabric panels of reverse appliqué. They are handmade by Kuna women in Panama. The Kuna woman use two mola panels as the basis for the blouses of their traditional dress.

This is a mola blouse. There is a similar mola panel at the back of the blouse. This is a traditional Kuna design, not related to the Nazi swastika.

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Kuna Yala

Kuna Yala (aka San Blas islands) November 9 to December 9, 2012

Kuna Yala is a semi-autonomous region of Panama. The region is an archipelago of islands (300 – 400 of them) and a long thin strip of Atlantic-side mainland adjacent to the islands. Kuna Yala begins just west of the border with Colombia.

The region is mostly governed and peopled by the Kuna indians, many of whom live in family or tribal communities. Homes are typically made of bamboo with thatched roofs. The men mostly fish, gather coconuts, and do some subsistence farming on the mainland (bananas, plantains, yucca, mango, etc.). Kuna society is matriarchal. The women make molas for sale to collectors and tourists and so are major contributors to the economy of Kuna Yala. The women also wear traditional dress.

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