November 2012, Kuna Yala

We really enjoyed the seafood in Kuna Yala. Fruit and vegetables in the shops were scarce and mostly poor quality, but the fresh seafood almost made up for it.

Imagine door-to-door salemen offering fresh fish, crab and lobster at reasonable prices. With Gayle away, Tony and I tried particularly hard to tire of crab and lobster. [For the record, I discovered it takes me three days and then I need two days off.]

And don’t forget the illusive, delicious and defenseless slipper or Spanish lobster. (See photo at the bottom of this page.) We bought one of these the only time we were offered. They look a bit weird but they taste the best. I don’t have a photo of our Spanish lobster. If you’re ever offered one don’t refuse.

In the Lemon Cayes, we asked this guy if he knew anyone selling fish. An hour or so later he returned with a wonderful selection of yellow jack. We bought two large ones ($7). They were delicious.

Sometimes rather than haggle on price, sometimes we paid asking price but requested that they clean the fish — I hate having the scales and guts on our deck. The Kuna usually need to borrow a knife and a scaler if we want our fish cleaned.

Kuna returning knife and bowl after cleaning and gutting.

Our first lobsters in Kuna Yala were these fine specimens. We ate them for Siggy and Hilary’s farewell dinner.

First lobsters in Kuna Yala.

More were to follow…

“Langostinos” bought out of a knapsack from a kid in a clandestine deal brokered by Frederico, our Kuna guide in Nargana. ($5 for 7)

One night, we left two lobsters in the mesh bag off the boat. I was confused in the morning because there appeared to three lobsters in the bag — one had molted in the night. Soft-shelled lobster is a fine delicacy.

The hard empty shell, recently vacated by our lobster.

I baked bread for the first time on On Delay.

Fresh bread and fresh lobsters for lunch.

Lobster that isn’t bought or eaten locally is flown to Panama City to be purchased by wholesalers and restaurants (including the Red Lobster chain). We learned that the Kuna get $4 per lb for lobster and $2 per lb for crab.

The airport at Playon Chico: the red and white coolers in the foreground are the lobsters waiting to fly to Panama City.

We encountered and ate some huge crab in Kuna Yala.

Jane with bag o’ crab. This one has big, powerful claws.

Even the three Kuna who sold us this one were much impressed by its size.

Huge crab with tape measure, showing two feet.

Tony observed how the Kuna handle big crabs and took the same approach.

Tony-the-brave and the crab.

Tony turned this guy into a lovely, delicate crab and coconut curry.

Postscript: This is a slipper or Spanish lobster. (Photo sent by CJ.)

The slipper lobster.